Tepary Beans

Next time you’re gazing at the Milky Way’s 100-400 billion stars, think about this: Tohono O’odham legend says tepary beans were scattered across the sky to form it.

Yes, the humble and resilient legume growing in the Sonoran Desert for millennia that’s a symbol of Tucson’s culinary heritage, culture, and a testament to their resilience and agricultural ingenuity of the farmers who cultivate them.

Its history is a fascinating journey through time and culture. Native to arid regions of the Southwestern United States and Mexico, archaeological evidence suggests tepary beans were cultivated as far back as 500 BCE in the Tehuacán Valley of Mexico.

Tepary beans thrive where rainfall is scarce. They were traditionally planted following desert rains or in the moist soil of river floodplains.

Despite their importance, tepary beans faced a decline in the 20th century due to market forces, changing tastes, and the advent of mechanized irrigation, which led to a preference for other crops. However, tepary beans have seen a resurgence in interest due to their drought tolerance and potential as a sustainable crop in the face of climate change. This renewed interest is evidence of the tepary bean’s enduring legacy and its role in agricultural diversity and food security.

Since the 1970s, Ramona Farms, a beacon of Arizona agricultural heritage on the Gila River Indian Community in Sacaton, has played a pivotal role in preserving the tepary bean. The Akimel O’odham and Tohono O’odham people have cultivated it for centuries, and Ramona Farms, by embracing these ancient traditions, helped save it from the brink of obscurity.

Their commitment to non-GMO farming and avoidance of pesticides and herbicides ensures the purity and sustainability of this nutritious bean, which boasts a higher fiber and protein content along with a low glycemic index than most other beans.

By offering heirloom varieties like the Stotoah Bavi, Soam Bavi, and the rare S-Chuuk Bavi, Ramona Farms not only provides a link to the past but also offers a superfood that’s both delicious and adaptable to the challenges of modern agriculture.

Incorporating tepary beans into modern cuisine, Tucson chefs and food enthusiasts weave the old with the new, creating dishes paying homage to the past while embracing contemporary flavors and techniques, connecting us to the land and people who’ve nurtured it.

Classes
Just 1 seat remains for November’s Behind the Butcher Counter: Autumn Delights: Mastering Turkey Porchetta and Pumpkin Pie Soufflés with Chef Brett Sippy. Boursin mashed potatoes, where creamy meets earthy in a dish that’s both comforting and chic, and sautéed Swiss chard, adding a touch of elegance to your plate, with its vibrant colors and delicate flavors round out the menu.

Cheers to a private night of fun, flavor, and festive spirits on December 2 for Seasonal Sips: Crafting Festive Wine Cocktails at The Hoppy Vine with owner Hector Martinez. You’ll mix a Festive Fizz Fusion, shake things up with Fig & Thistle, and stir your way to perfection with the classic and elegant Sherry Cherub.

Leave the shopping, dough making, and cleanup to us with Confectionary Wonders: A Holiday Cookie Baking Odyssey in the works in December. You’ll work in teams of two to bake 12-14 different kinds of cookies and everyone will take home at least one dozen of each; plenty to eat and enjoy, as well as share as gifts. Stay tuned for the details.

Holiday Tea at The Carriage House, will take place on December 8, 1:00 p.m. – 3:30 p.m. in the charming ambiance of downtown’s historic carriage house, and will blend the charm of Tucson’s past with contemporary flavors from Charro Steak & Del Rey’s Executive Chef/Partner and culinary director for the Flores family of restaurants, Gary Hickey. His menu includes five finger sandwiches; scones with clotted cream, lemon curd, and strawberry jam; and a variety of sweets; and, of course, tea, and live entertainment, too! Stay tuned for the details.

The December 12 Decadent Delights: Mastering Beef and Chicken Wellington is sold out.

Wishing you joy in the kitchen,
Michele

Tepary Bean Escomite
Yield: 4-6 servings

Escomite is a delightful dish embodying the spirit of Tucson’s culinary heritage. It’s a celebration of the earth’s bounty, bringing together the three sisters of Indigenous agriculture: beans, corn, and squash. The tepary beans, with their firm texture and rich flavor, form the backbone of this dish.

Corn adds sweetness and a satisfying crunch, while squash brings a buttery softness that contrasts beautifully with the beans. Together, these ingredients create a symphony of flavors and textures both nourishing and comforting.

1 cup dried tepary beans
4 cups water, for soaking beans
4 cups vegetable broth
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large white onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1-2 squash, diced
1 red, yellow, or orange bell pepper, diced
2 ears corn kernels, roasted
2 tomatoes, seeded and diced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
Kosher salt to taste
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
Fresh cilantro, chopped for garnish
Squeeze of lime for garnish

1. Soak tepary beans overnight in 4 cups of water. Drain and rinse beans the next day.
2. In a large pot, add oil and sauté onion until translucent and fragrant; add garlic, stirring to combine. Add the beans, corn, squash, bell pepper, and tomatoes, stirring to combine. Add vegetable broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer gently until beans are tender, 1-2 hours.
3. Serve hot with a squeeze of lime and sprinkling of cilantro along with warm tortillas.

Photo credit: Ramona Farms