New Mexico Chile Showdown: Red, Green, or Christmas?

At this very moment, all across New Mexico, diners are being asked the same question: Red, green, or Christmas?

I was no exception on a recent trip to the Land of Enchantment. Every day, the scenario went like this: The server stares at me expectantly. The table quiets. “Red or green?”

My heart is pounding. Sweat beads are forming on my forehead. I consider flipping a coin. I wonder if I can just ask for salsa or sneak out the back door unnoticed. I want to say, “I’m from Tucson. We don’t have to make these choices at every meal. This is a lot of pressure!”

Dining in New Mexico isn’t just about eating. They take their chile seriously. It’s about making choices that define you. When the server asks, “Red or green?” you’re not just picking a sauce; you’re committing to a lifelong allegiance, a spice-fueled identity, a flavor philosophy. And if you’re truly fearless, you might just utter that fateful word: Christmas.

New Mexican chile culture dates back centuries, with Indigenous peoples cultivating chiles long before Spanish settlers arrived in the 16th century. These fiery pods became a staple ingredient, evolving into the legendary red and green chile sauces now gracing plates across the state.

Red chile sauce starts by rehydrating and blending sun-dried red chiles into a rich, smoky, slightly sweet concoction. It’s the seasoned wisdom of the chile world: Aged, deep, bold. It’s for those who like their spice with a side of contemplation.

Green chile sauce, on the other hand, starts with fresh, roasted green chiles, giving it a bright, tangy, and slightly vegetal kick. It’s the young rebel: Lively, fresh, and ready to party on your enchiladas, huevos rancheros, or burritos.

Then there’s Christmas. Is that indecisive decision a glorious compromise or refusal to compromise? Is it the best of both worlds and the diplomatic solution letting you have your chile and smother it, too?

Ask a dozen New Mexicans which sauce reigns supreme, and you’ll get 12 passionately conflicting answers. Truth be told, the only wrong answer is no chile at all. A plate of enchiladas without sauce? That may be a crime.

Now I don’t want to burst the bubble of anyone who believes their chiles are the best in the world, but do they know their beloved chiles grow from seeds from Arizona?

Yes, Curry Seed & Chile Co. in Pearce, is the farm powerhouse in chile seed genetics, supplying more than 95% of commercially grown chile seeds in the U.S. and influencing chile production worldwide.

Since 1976, Ed Curry, a fourth-generation Arizona farmer, has been refining chile seed genetics to ensure uniform heat levels, high yields, disease resistance, drought tolerance, soil health, and long-term success in the U.S., Mexico, South Africa, and Israel, including New Mexico’s certified chile program.

I caught a break on the way home at lunch in Hatch. Luckily, no need to answer that question when ordering a grilled cheese sandwich.

Please know how much your support and checking in during my recovery continues to touch my heart. I’m hopeful the chefs and I will be welcoming you back into the kitchen in July.

Wishing you joy in the kitchen,
Michele

New Mexican Red Chile Pork Stew
Yield: 4-6 servings

2 lbs. pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium onion, diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups red chile sauce, homemade or store-bought
3 cups chicken broth
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon salt 
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 large russet potato, diced
1 cup cooked hominy
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Fresh cilantro, chopped for garnish

1. In a large pot over medium heat, heat oil then add pork and sear until browned on all sides. Remove and set aside.
   2. In the same pot, add onion and cook until fragrant and slightly translucent; add garlic and cook for 30 seconds. Return pork to the pot. Add chile sauce, chicken broth, cumin, oregano, salt, and pepper; stir well.
   3, Reduce heat to low, cover, and cook 1 ½-2 hours, stirring occasionally, until pork is tender. Add potato and hominy; simmer 20-30 minutes, until the potato is soft. Stir in vinegar to brighten the flavors. Taste and adjust seasoning.
   4. Ladle into bowls; garnish with cilantro. Serve with warm flour tortillas or cornbread.

Red Chile Sauce
12 dried red New Mexico chiles (or ancho chiles), stems and seeds removed
3 cups hot water
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ medium onion, diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar or lime juice for a citrusy kick

1. Place dried chiles in a bowl and cover with hot water. Soak about 20 minutes, until softened. Transfer chiles and soaking water to a blender or food processor. Blend until smooth; strain for a silkier sauce.
   2. Heat vegetable oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until soft and fragrant; add garlic and cook 30 seconds. Stir in cumin, oregano, salt, and pepper. Cook 1 minute.
   3. Pour chile mixture into saucepan. Stir well and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes until thickened. Stir in apple cider vinegar or lime juice. Adjust seasoning to taste.